2018年5月29日星期二

Glycerin Soap Base 透明皂基

75% alcohol: 50% of total oil weight, can add more if it evaporates.
25% glycerin, can mix with ethanol
25% sugar + water to make sugar water. The amount of water can be around 70% of sugar weight.
Hot process soap procedure, then add ethanol + glycerin, mix, cover, and cook till incorporated.
add sugar water
in mold

2018年5月28日星期一

Sage and Vinegar Face Soap (The Nerdy Fram Wife)

Sage infused vinegar 25% of total water: 28g
Distilled water and some left patchouli ice cubes total: 83g
Cedarwood and tea tree essential oils: 10g
Sodium lactate: 3.5g
Took longer time to trace

How to Make Clear Soap from YouTube

For my reference:
Highly recommend this: CRAFTSAM | How to Make Translucent Soap

1. cook till soap batter is thick
2. add glycerin and ethanol, mix well without heating
3. cover with plastic wrap firmly, heat on and shake, till everything melted
4. stop heating, uncover, hot water, sugar, sitr
5. dye & mica
6. in mold

Homemade Glycerin Soap Recipe (From Scratch)

How to Make Clear Soap Base From Scratch

Glycerin Soap III w/ Shea Butter

Try to add shea butter in the recipe. The whole process took me about 4 hours. It looked better before adding sugar water. Need to modify the recipe and some procedures. However, it felt good after washing with this glycerin soap.

Glycerin 70g
95% Alcohol 150g. (75% seems to work better)
Sugar water: 60g suger + 43g distilled water

My First Liquid Soap (Shampoo) 洗髮精初體驗

How to make liquid soap (作法請參考)：https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_TpYqYDU5vU

This recipe is inspired by 娜娜媽教你做超滋養天然修護手工皂
Maybe because I am not used to use shampoo bars, even with liquid shampoo, the after-use feeling is nearly the same. Not sure if its too dry or too oily. Need to try other recipe, or maybe make facial liquid soap next.

2018年5月27日星期日

Glycerin Soap II

Glycerin 20% of total oil weight=70g
Alcohol 75% 159g, but then added 95% for 16g=make total of 50% of total oil weight. Use 95% alcohol looks better.
Sugar (20%) 70g+50g distilled water
Cook for 3.5hrs. 1st hour added glycerin, 2nd hr added alcohol, 3rd hr added sugar water, keep on cooking till the everything dissolved.
Check and stir every 30 mins.

How to Make Liquid Soap {homemade laundry detergent}

For my reference:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_TpYqYDU5vU

My First Glycerin Soap

Not transparent at all, need to adjust the recipe.

Glycerin 51g
95% Alcohol 160g (?not sure about how much I used)
Suger 49g+water 35g

not transparent
cooked for 2.5hrs

2018年5月26日星期六

How to Make Clear Transparent Soap From Scratch – Making Transparent Soap Guide

For my reference:

http://www.lovinsoap.com/2016/08/make-clear-transparent-soap-scratch-making-transparent-soap-guide/

Cocoa and Coffee Butter Soap

3.5g sodium lactate
Unscented
Unrefined cocoa butter
1g cocoa powder

All About Butters in Bath & Beauty Products (www.soapqueen.com)

For my reference.

The following information is from
https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/all-about-butters-in-bath-beauty-products/

All About Butters in Bath & Beauty Products

January 13, 2016 Filed Under: Tips & Tricks

Rich, creamy and decadent, butters are a great addition to a wide variety of projects. They can be used in cold process soap, lip balms, body butters and more. They are solid at room temperature, and have varying textures. If you’re wondering what butter is right for your project, read more about mango, cocoa, coffee, shea and avocado butter below. Keep in mind that choosing a butter depends a lot on personal preference, and how you’d like your finished product to feel.

Before we look at the different kinds of butters, let’s talk about what butters have in common. Butters come from various natural sources, such as fruit trees and kernels. Some butters, such as coffee butter, are a blend of hydrogenated oils. Hydrogenation is the process of adding hydrogen to liquid oils to turn them into a solid. In general, butters are extremely skin loving and add a luxurious feel to products. In cold process soap, butters can contribute to the firmness of the bar. But, using too much butter can inhibit lather, or cause the soap to crack. In general, I like to use butters around 10%-15% or less in my recipes. To read more about various soap making oils and butters, click here.

Some butters are soft and spreadable, while others are hard and brittle. In my opinion, the softest butters are avocado butter and coffee butter. They are soft, spreadable and melt on contact with the skin. Shea butter is slightly firmer, but still soft and spreadable. The two harder butters are mango butter and cocoa butter. Both are more brittle, and need to be chopped rather than scooped. Cocoa butter is much firmer than mango, and is great for adding firmness to cold process soap. Do you have a favorite butter?

Avocado Butter

Avocado butter has a very soft and spreadable consistency. It’s manufactured from the fruit of the avocado tree, which normally grows in sub-tropical regions. Avocado butter is solid at room temperature, but melts when it comes in contact with skin. Its smooth texture and low melting point makes it easy to spread and whip, making it a great option for soft balms and whipped body butters.

In cold process soap, I recommend using avocado butter up to 12.5% of your recipe (though I tend to use it at more of a 3-5% rate max). Avocado butter will contribute slightly to the firmness of the final bar of soap, but because it’s not an extremely firm butter it does not firm the soap like coconut oil, palm oil, wax or cocoa butter. It also isn’t going to contribute much to lather which is why my preference is to use it at a lower usage rate. It has a shelf life of about 3 years. Check out the recipes below that contain avocado butter for project ideas!

Cocoa Butter (Cocoa Butter Chunks, Cocoa Butter Pastilles & Deodorized Cocoa Butter)

Cocoa butter is a vegetable fat with a creamy, chocolatey scent. It has a firm and hard texture and can be used to harden soap, lip balm, body butters and more. Cocoa butter has a melting point of approximately 95.0–97.7 °F, and a shelf life of about 1 to 2 years. At room temperature, cocoa butter is extremely hard and brittle, similar to a wax texture. It does not melt on contact with the skin.

Naturally, cocoa butter has a rich aroma, but a majority of this can be removed via steam. This process results in deodorized cocoa butter, which has a lighter smell and color. I love using cocoa butter in my cold process soap when I want to add firmness in addition to skin-loving properties. In particular, it’s a great choice when you’re making a palm-free recipe. It does not contribute much to lather so I recommend using cocoa butter around 15% or less in your cold process recipes. A higher percentage can cause the soap to crack, or feel brittle or waxy. It’s also great when formulating a firm lip product or balm.

Due to its fatty acid profile, it’s best to temper cocoa butter to avoid crystallization when making anything but soap. When the fats in cocoa butter melt and solidify at different temperatures, the fatty acids can from large clumps. This leads the final product to feel grainy. Click here to read more about tempering your butters. Check out the tutorials below featuring cocoa butter.

Coffee Butter

Coffee butter is a soft and smooth butter. It is similar in texture to avocado butter. It has a soft brown color and a rich coffee scent. It’s a blend of hydrogenated vegetable oil and coffee seed oil. It naturally contains .5%-1% caffeine. Coffee butter has a melting point of about 104° F.

Because it’s nice and soft, it’s great for whipped butters. When using coffee butter in your skin care recipes, keep in mind that the natural smell will end up in the final product. If you love all things coffee, this is good news! I used coffee butter in both the Coffee Butter Foot Creme and and the Whipped Coffee Butter Tutorial. The butter adds a soft scent in these recipes, and contributes to a soft and smooth texture. I love the whipped texture of coffee butter so much, I also used it in the Pumpkin Spice Latte Sugar Scrub Soap Queen TV video below.

In cold process soap, I recommend using coffee butter around 3-6% of your recipe. Because of its soft texture, it does not add very much firmness or lathering properties to your recipe. Instead, it adds skin-loving conditioning properties. Coffee butter has a shelf life of about about 1 year.

Mango Butter

Mango butter has a firmer texture than shea, avocado and coffee butters, but is softer than cocoa butter. It is extracted from the fruit kernels of the mango tree, and begins to melt upon contact with the skin. Most mango butter on the market is refined and deodorized to remove scent and color. It has a melting point of about 86° F, and a shelf life of about 1 year.

The medium texture (not too soft, not too hard) makes it a go-to choice for many crafters. In soap, I recommend using it at 15% or less of the total oils in your cold process recipe. When too much is used, it can cause the soap to crack or become brittle. Mango butter contributes a small amount of firmness to soap, but not nearly as much as cocoa butter.

Due to the slightly firm texture of mango butter, I prefer to add it to products in melted form. It’s not the best butter choice if you’d like to whip the butter; I recommend melting it first and whipping it as it cools. Check out the recipes below for mango butter ideas!

Shea Butter

Last but certainly not least is shea butter. Shea butter is obtained by cold pressing the seeds of the karite tree. The shea butter found at Bramble Berry is ultra-refined for a neutral smell and pale color. Shea butter has a softer texture than cocoa and mango butter, but is slightly firmer than avocado and coffee butter. It has a shelf life of about 1 year, and a melting point of about 90° F.

This skin-loving butter is usually used at 15% or less of the total oils in your cold process recipes. It contributes a bit to bar hardness and conditioning properties but does not help with lather. The soft texture makes it great for creating whipped body butters, as shown in the Easy Whipped Shea Butter. It’s also fantastic in lotion and lotion bars.

2018年5月25日星期五

左手香皂 Patchouli Soap

3.5g sodium lactate
Patchouli juice as lye water
Tea tree and cedarwood essential oils

2018年5月24日星期四

熱製法咖啡薄荷皂 HP Mint and Coffee Soap

10.5g sodium lactate
Mint juice 60g, coffee 62g
Tea tree essential oil 10g
Infused olive oil: Chrysanthemum infused olive oil and sage infused olive oil
Cook for 1 hr, check and stir every 15 mins

How To Make Any Soap Recipe Palm Free (www.thenerdyfarmwife.com)

For my reference:
https://thenerdyfarmwife.com/how-to-make-any-soap-recipe-palm-free/

The following information is subtracted from https://thenerdyfarmwife.com/how-to-make-any-soap-recipe-palm-free/

Option 1 – Substitute with a similar oil/fat

Tallow/Lard: You can substitute this in direct proportion for palm oil; using up to 25 to 35% in a recipe. Some may dislike the use of tallow or lard in soap, since they are animal byproducts. On one hand, it’s good stewardship to use something that would normally be thrown away. On the other hand, it’s not compatible with the beliefs of vegans and some religions. My main hesitation with using it is because often antibiotics and other toxins are concentrated in the fats of animals. In the past, I had a hard time sourcing it, but now we raise our own pastured animals so I’m 100% sure of their clean diet and living conditions and that they were treated respectfully. There are other vegetable-based alternatives though, if you wish to avoid all animal products.

Cocoa Butter: Makes a hard bar with a creamy lather. If you use more than 15% in a soap recipe, it may cause cracking. I like to use the unscented version of cocoa butter, since I don’t want the scent to carry through to my final soap. If you enjoy the unrefined scent though; you can use it just as well. (I like using the unscented kind, purchased HERE, from Bramble Berry.)

Shea Butter: Moisturizes and nourishes the skin. It will add a bit of hardness, but not too much, so I don’t rely on this as a full substitution. Aim for no more than 10 to 15% in a recipe. (I like the refined version that I buy HERE, also from Bramble Berry.)

Coconut Oil: If coconut oil is already in your recipe, you probably won’t want to add more. A general guideline is to keep the amount under 25 to 30% of the recipe or it might start to dry out your skin. (Though I have gone over that amount and added extra moisturizing oils to compensate.)

Babassu Oil: This has similar properties as coconut oil. (It can be used as a direct substitute for coconut oil as well, if you’re allergic.) Babassu oil is harder to source, but I’ve had excellent results with the Dr Adorable brand found on Amazon.

Tips to make palm free soap harder

Palm free soap tends to be on the softer side at first. Mainly, you need to give it more time in the mold and more time curing than you might other recipes. A few other tips that might help:

Reduce the water amount in your recipe. This is especially helpful when using palm free soap recipes in a silicone mold. If a recipe calls for 20 to 30 ounces of water, I would normally pick a mid-range of around 25 or 26 ounces of water. You can drop that amount down even lower (though going under 20 ounces is not suggested.) If soft soaps are a problem, I’d try dropping down an ounce or two under the middle range number or 23 in this example. Another way to look at it is – look at the amount of your lye and then double it. (example: If your soap calls for 3.95 oz of lye, use 8 oz of water.) That gives a pretty big water discount, so be prepared for your soap to set up faster while mixing.
Add salt to your water before adding lye. There’s a good article to read more about that HERE, but basically you can use 1/2 teaspoon of salt per pound of oil in your recipe. Example: Our cucumber soap has 40 ounces (2.5 pounds) of oil so would need 1 1/4 teaspoons salt.
Add sodium lactate to your cooled lye water. Use 1 teaspoon per pound of oils. The type from Bramble Berry is sourced from corn and beets.
Bring soap to a thicker trace before pouring. This seems to help the soap set up faster, in the mold.
Utilize the freezer. If your soap won’t come out of the mold after several days, try putting it in the freezer overnight or until it’s firm enough to pop out. Set the loaf in the open air to cure for a few days before slicing and handling further.

2018年5月23日星期三

Garden Mint Soap 田園薄荷皂

This soap is inspired by https://thenerdyfarmwife.com/garden-mint-soap-recipe/.

I happened to have some fresh mint leaves from my small garden.

10g sodium lactate
Fresh mint leaves + some distilled water, use Vitamix to make mint juice. Filtered the juice with a cloth. Freeze the filtered mint juice for further use.
Unrefined avocado oil
Pepper mint essential oil
Cook for 1 hour, check and stir every 15 mins.