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【今日材料】
【表面裝飾】
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| 這次無花果乾與胡桃先加入蛋糕糊一起去烤， 烤好再塗上果醬水，約 5 分鐘後， 以保鮮膜包好放涼即可。 |
2016年7月7日 星期四
2016年7月6日 星期三
蜂蜜入皂資訊
以下文章取自：https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/adding-honey-to-cold-process-soap-tips-tricks-recipe/
{Adding Honey to Cold Process Soap: Tips, Tricks & Recipe}
On the left, the soap was left at room temperature. On the right, the soap was placed in the freezer. Because so much honey was used, both soaps experienced gel phase!
THREE: Once the batter has reached a light trace, add the fragrance blend and stick blend for several seconds to combine.
FOUR: Add 1 tablespoon dispersed Fizzy Lemonade Colorant and 1 teaspoon dispersed Yellow Oxide and use a whisk or stick blender to mix in the colorants.
FIVE: Add the honey to the soap batter, and use the stick blender to incorporate the soap into the batter.
SIX: Once the soap has reached a nice thick trace, pour the soap into the molds. Remember, this recipe made two batches of soap. =)
SEVEN: Use a spoon to create a nice textured top. Spritz the top of the soap with 99% isopropyl alcohol to prevent soda ash. One of the soaps went into the freezer, while the other sat out on the counter at room temperature.
After about 30 minutes to an hour, the loaf of soap left on the counter began to go through an extremely hot gel phase. The entire loaf started to caramelize due to the honey content, and the color started to deepen. The center of the soap is the most insulated and the warmest area of gel phase. Check out that dark brown color!
Check out that awesome gel phase in the center of this soap! The extra sugar from the honey increases the temperature of cold process soap.
It’s so interesting to see the difference between the two bars. Clearly, the sugar in both bars caused them to become quite hot. The soap that went into the freezer (shown on the right, below) became hot in the center, where the soap was insulated. The soap that was closer to the outside of the mold stayed cool due to the temperature of the freezer. It’s crazy that a freezer was not able to fully prevent gel phase! If less honey was used, the soap may not have gone through gel phase at all. In addition, soaping with cooler temperatures may have prevented the partial gel phase.
On the left, the soap was left at room temperature. On the right, the soap was placed in the freezer.
{Adding Honey to Cold Process Soap: Tips, Tricks & Recipe}
There are a wide variety of ingredients to customize handmade soap. Oils, colorants, additives and fragrances create a perfectly customized bar. Honey is a popular additive for cold process soap. It has various properties that make it appealing for skincare. In particular, honey is a natural humectant, which means it absorbs moisture from the air. Humectants are great for the skin, as they can help the skin retain moisture. Honey also contains antioxidants and natural sugars which can increase the lather of cold process soap.
While honey has some great benefits for soap and skincare, it can be tricky to work with. Adding honey to cold process soap means you are adding extra sugar. Sugar causes cold process soap to heat up. This also happens when using ingredients such as milk, fruit juices and purees, which also contain natural sugars. When soap heats up after poured into the mold, the soap goes through gel phase. ‘Gelling’ and ‘gel phasing’ in cold process soap refers to a part of the saponification (soapmaking) process where the soap gets warm and gelatinous – up to 180 degrees (around 63 C). Click here to read more about gel phase.
In many cases, gel phase is a good thing! It can result in brighter colors, and give the soap a shinier appearance. But when you’re working with a soap that contains extra sugar such as honey, you may want to avoid gel phase. The extra sugar can lead to an extremely hot gel phase. The hot gel phase can produce cracked soap and a kind of caramelization, which leads to a deep color within the soap. If this happens, the soap is still perfectly fine to use, but it may not be the color you want. In some cases, sugar combined with extreme heat can even lead to a soap volcano. Check out the volcano that occurred when I made soap using coconut milk.
In general, use about 1 teaspoon of honey per pound of soap. You can certainly use more, but keep in mind the more honey you use, the hotter your soap will get. Some soapers add their honey to the soap directly during trace. Others prefer to dilute the honey in a portion of the water in their recipe, and add this mixture at trace. If you’ve never worked with honey in cold process soap before, I recommend keeping your design very simple, as the honey can cause the soap to accelerate and thicken quickly. This can make swirl and complicated designs very difficult.
When working with honey in cold process soap, I recommend keeping temperatures cool. This will help prevent the soap from scorching and caramelizing the honey. Most soapers work with their lye and oils around 100-120° F. When adding honey to my recipe, I like to soap on the cooler side, around 100° F. The more honey you add to the soap, the cooler your soaping temperatures should be. Then, to help prevent the soap from going through gel phase, place the freshly poured soap immediately into the fridge or freezer for at least 3 hours, up to overnight. Sometimes the fridge is not cool enough to prevent gel phase, so a freezer is a better option.
To demonstrate the effects of honey in cold process soap, I made a basic batch and split it into two molds. One mold went into the freezer, while the other soap stayed on the counter at room temperature. In order to really drive my point home, I used 2 teaspoons of honey per pound of cold process soap. This is more honey than I recommend. The large amount of honey in this soap caused it to really heat up! On the left is the soap left on the counter, while the soap on the right was placed in the freezer. The soap left at room temperature became extremely hot. The honey soap that went into the freezer also got quite warm, and went through a partial gel phase. Scroll down to see the process by which these bars were made, and more photos of the end results.
On the left, the soap was left at room temperature. On the right, the soap was placed in the freezer. Because so much honey was used, both soaps experienced gel phase!
Honey Lemon Cold Process Soap70 oz. Lots of Lather Quick Mix
10.1 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye
23.1 oz. Distilled Water
12 teaspoons of honey (about 2 teaspoons per pound of soap)
2 oz. Sweet Meyer Lemon Fragrance Oil
2 oz. Pure Honey Fragrance Oil
Fizzy Lemonade Colorant
Yellow Oxide
10.1 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye
23.1 oz. Distilled Water
12 teaspoons of honey (about 2 teaspoons per pound of soap)
2 oz. Sweet Meyer Lemon Fragrance Oil
2 oz. Pure Honey Fragrance Oil
Fizzy Lemonade Colorant
Yellow Oxide
Note: The recipe below creates about 6.5 pounds of soap, which was poured into two 10″ Silicone Loaf Molds. If you’d like to replicate this recipe for one mold, use the Lye Calculator to resize the batch.
If you’ve never made Cold Process soap before, stop here! I highly recommend checking out our FREE four part SoapQueen.tv series on Cold Process Soapmaking, especially the episode on lye safety. And if you’d rather do some reading, Bramble Berry carries a wide range of books on the topic, including my newest book, Soap Crafting. You can also checkout the digital downloads for that instant gratification factor.
SAFETY FIRST: Suit up for safe handling practices! That means goggles, gloves and long sleeves. Make sure kids, pets, and other distractions and tripping hazards are out of the house or don’t have access to your soaping space. Always soap in a well-ventilated area.
FRAGRANCE PREP: Add 2 oz. Pure Honey Fragrance Oil and 2 oz. Sweet Meyer Lemon Fragrance Oil in a fragrance safe, glass container. Stir gently and set aside until ready to use.
COLOR PREP: Disperse 1 teaspoon of yellow oxide into 1 tablespoon of lightweight liquid oil like sweet almond or sunflower oil. Then in a separate container, disperse 1 teaspoon of Fizzy Lemonade Colorant into 1 tablespoon lightweight liquid oil. Use a mini mixer to disperse any clumps.
ONE: Slowly and carefully add the lye to the water and gently stir until the lye has fully dissolved and the liquid is clear. Set aside to cool.
TWO: Thoroughly melt the Lots of Lather Quick Mix (remember to fully melt then mix your entire container portioning). Once the lye water and the oils have cooled to about 100-110 degrees (and are ideally within 10 degrees of each other), add the lye water to the oils and stick blend until thin trace. If you’d like a harder bar of soap that releases faster from the mold, you can add sodium lactate to the cooled lye water. Use 1 teaspoon of sodium lactate per pound of oils in the recipe. For this recipe, you’d add about 4 teaspoons sodium lactate.
THREE: Once the batter has reached a light trace, add the fragrance blend and stick blend for several seconds to combine.
FOUR: Add 1 tablespoon dispersed Fizzy Lemonade Colorant and 1 teaspoon dispersed Yellow Oxide and use a whisk or stick blender to mix in the colorants.
FIVE: Add the honey to the soap batter, and use the stick blender to incorporate the soap into the batter.
SIX: Once the soap has reached a nice thick trace, pour the soap into the molds. Remember, this recipe made two batches of soap. =)
SEVEN: Use a spoon to create a nice textured top. Spritz the top of the soap with 99% isopropyl alcohol to prevent soda ash. One of the soaps went into the freezer, while the other sat out on the counter at room temperature.
After about 30 minutes to an hour, the loaf of soap left on the counter began to go through an extremely hot gel phase. The entire loaf started to caramelize due to the honey content, and the color started to deepen. The center of the soap is the most insulated and the warmest area of gel phase. Check out that dark brown color!
Check out that awesome gel phase in the center of this soap! The extra sugar from the honey increases the temperature of cold process soap.
In addition, you can see that the soap is becoming so hot that the top is cracking. Cracks in soap does not affect the quality, but is an aesthetic issue. Cracking means that due to the heat, the soap is expanding.
The other loaf of soap was left in the freezer overnight. Once removed, it was still a nice creamy color and texture. But once it was unmolded, I noticed on the bottom that the center of the soap still went through gel phase, despite being in the cold freezer. It just goes to show the power of extra sugar in cold process soap! If I had used less honey, this soap most likely would have not gone through gel phase. In addition, soaping with cooler temperatures will prevent this.
The other loaf of soap was left in the freezer overnight. Once removed, it was still a nice creamy color and texture. But once it was unmolded, I noticed on the bottom that the center of the soap still went through gel phase, despite being in the cold freezer. It just goes to show the power of extra sugar in cold process soap! If I had used less honey, this soap most likely would have not gone through gel phase. In addition, soaping with cooler temperatures will prevent this.
It’s so interesting to see the difference between the two bars. Clearly, the sugar in both bars caused them to become quite hot. The soap that went into the freezer (shown on the right, below) became hot in the center, where the soap was insulated. The soap that was closer to the outside of the mold stayed cool due to the temperature of the freezer. It’s crazy that a freezer was not able to fully prevent gel phase! If less honey was used, the soap may not have gone through gel phase at all. In addition, soaping with cooler temperatures may have prevented the partial gel phase.On the left, the soap was left at room temperature. On the right, the soap was placed in the freezer.
Even more interesting, you can see smell specks throughout the bar on the left, and inside the gelled portion of the soap that was placed into the freezer. Both soaps have been pH tested, and are not lye heavy. In addition, these bars have been used without irritation, so the specks are not lye pockets or crystals. Though I have theories, I’m not 100% sure what these specks are caused from, but it’s clear heat is playing a role. Interestingly, the small specks do not occur in the areas where the soap (on the right) did not go through gel phase. The specks only appear in the gelled portion of the soap. There is also a very clear cluster of white spots all around the gelled center.
One theory is these specks are palm stearic acid. The Lots of Lather Quick Mix contains palm oil, which is made up of several different kinds of fatty acids. One of these is stearic acid, which solidifies at a different temperature. Stearic acid is why it’s so important to always thoroughly melt your entire container of palm oil; the stearic acid tends to sink and solidify first as the liquid oil cools. This means the stearic acid is unevenly distributed throughout the palm oil container. The specks only seem to occur in the areas where the soap became extremely hot. In particular, the ring of white specks in the soap that was placed in the freezer suggests the stearic acid cooled quickly in this area and clustered together.
Another theory is these specks are the sugars in the honey crystallizing. It’s hard to see in the photos, but the soap that was left at room temperature and became very hot has a glossy, shiny texture. When you think about how sugar and honey behaves, it makes sense that when it becomes very hot, it forms a type of crystal…like a rock candy! The overall texture of the soap is extremely brittle and rather crumbly. Most of the bars crumbled as they were cut. Usually, crumbly bars hint at lye heaviness, but these bars are perfectly balanced. Below, you can see the unique texture inside the bars. My big take away from this experiment was 2 teaspoons honey per pound of soap is way too much. =) Another theory is that the heat may have also caused the soap to expand on the inside, and the small dots are mini heat tunnels. Check out this crazy heat tunnel I experienced several years ago!
2016年7月5日 星期二
2016年7月4日 星期一
蜂蜜馬賽皂
今天上了 Leco 老師的金盞花寶寶皂，老師送了我兩塊皂，其中一塊是蜂蜜燕麥皂，天啊！味道超級好。老師大概跟我說了一下比例，我回到家也記不大清楚，為了練習渲染，所以隨意做了這款蜂蜜馬賽皂。
【油品】Total weight: 350g
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| 超脂蜂蜜馬賽皂 |
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| 希望滋潤好洗 |
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| 這是老師做的手工皂， 絕對是美與實用的結合！ |
【油品】Total weight: 350g
- 初榨橄欖油（72%）：252g
- 椰子油（20%）：70g
- 棕櫚油（8%)：28g
- 超脂油（5%）：17g（Shea Butter）
【蜂蜜】20g
【INS】140
【NaOH】51g
【冰塊水】120g（剛好把之前的薰衣草茶冰塊用完）
【精油】甜橙
【粉類】玫瑰果粉、金盞花粉
抹茶巧克力雙色磅蛋糕
今天除了去上了 Leco 老師的金盞花寶寶手工皂的課之外，還到田裡幫兩隻狗洗澡。晚上忙完，就急著把今天上過的手工皂渲染技巧再練一次，可惜沒有做得很好。沒關係，來個雙色磅蛋糕，應該算得心應手了吧！
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【今日材料】
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| 三顆蛋的份量剛好可以做兩個模 |
2016年7月3日 星期日
作皂手札 3 My Handmade Soap Notebook
做了一個多月的手工皂，熟成的可以洗了，開始洗後發覺一開始對油品的認識還不夠深入，一味地想要做滋潤一點的皂，所以減少了許多椰子油的比例，因此成皂的起泡度沒有被其他的油品取代，必較沒有泡泡。對我而言，我希望有些泡，但洗淨力別太強。
常用油品，有起泡力：（除椰子油外）
常用油品，有起泡力：（除椰子油外）
- 酪梨油（99/0.134）：適乾性肌膚。細緻且持續的泡沫。
- 米糠油（70/0.128）：熟齡。易起泡。
- 芝麻油（81/0.133）：抗老化。細緻有彈性的泡沫。
- 蓖麻油（95/0.1286）：起泡度高，透明感的皂，泡沫具黏性，易軟。
- 芥花油（56/0.1324）：保濕，泡沫溫和細緻。
- 甜杏仁油（97/0.136）：適嬰兒。泡沫細緻滋潤。
- 乳油木果脂（116/0.128）：泡沫像乳霜一樣綿密。保濕防曬。
我想下次可以調整的項目：
- Coconut Oil: at least 20% in order to create bubbles and increase cleaning power, meanwhile increase the INS. For me, I like the soap to have INS at 145 and above. Coconut oil is the best material to achieve it. However, the cleaning power may make me feel dry. I'd like to use good coconut oil, and shea butter for super fatting.
- Super Fatting with Shea Butter for face & body soap: 5%
杏桃乾磅蛋糕 Apricot Pound Cake
今天在 City Super 買到活動底盤長型烤模（21.2x6.7x5.6cm），剛好可以做一顆蛋的磅蛋糕，跟熊谷裕子書中的模具差不多，所以迫不及待來試試。今天用了三顆蛋，做了兩種尺寸。
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＊剛烤出來的模樣，敲一下就可脫膜＊
【今日材料】
【表面裝飾】柑橘威士忌風味醬 1T+2T 水加熱溶解。
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| 表面塗上果醬液，稍微放涼五分鐘後， 先包烤盤紙，再用保鮮膜包住，有蒸氣也沒關係。 室溫放涼保存。 |
2016年7月2日 星期六
家事皂 Solid Dish Soap
忙碌的一天！早上帶老大做入學要求的肺結核皮膚檢測，但要到下星期才有統一注射門診。下午帶小的去看眼科，過敏及感染。就算忙進忙出，我也沒法閒下來，晚上一有空，便做了手工皂和香蕉磅蛋糕。做什麼都要把配方記錄下來，方便日後查詢以及使用後配方的調整。（我還趁著蛋糕烘烤的時間，把中央空調的出風口拆下來清洗一番，感覺空氣好清新啊！）
今天是以家事皂為主。因為上次 Leco 老師的家事皂非常好用，熟成之後更好洗，我用量很大，想再做一款書上介紹的家事皂，這次參考日本石鹼工房所著「四季天然皂方帖」中介紹的家事款（p.29），稍微調整一下配方。書中特別提醒這款硬度很硬的家事皂，保溫後要趁皂還軟時脫模、切塊。
【油品】Total weight: 350g
【INS】180
【NaOH】51g
【冰塊水】125g（這次用洋甘菊茶冰塊，因為上次沒用完】
【精油】檸檬
【粉類】化妝品級珠光粉：法拉利紅；化妝品級珠光粉：粉紫紅（手癢亂加，其實家事皂嘛，還是不要加感覺比較天然。）
今天是以家事皂為主。因為上次 Leco 老師的家事皂非常好用，熟成之後更好洗，我用量很大，想再做一款書上介紹的家事皂，這次參考日本石鹼工房所著「四季天然皂方帖」中介紹的家事款（p.29），稍微調整一下配方。書中特別提醒這款硬度很硬的家事皂，保溫後要趁皂還軟時脫模、切塊。
【油品】Total weight: 350g
- 特級純橄欖油 Extra Virgin Olive Oil (10%)：35g
- 棕櫚油 Palm Oil (40%)：140g
- 椰子油 Coconut Oil (40%)：140g
- 蓖麻油 Castor Oil (10%)：35g
【INS】180
【NaOH】51g
【冰塊水】125g（這次用洋甘菊茶冰塊，因為上次沒用完】
【精油】檸檬
【粉類】化妝品級珠光粉：法拉利紅；化妝品級珠光粉：粉紫紅（手癢亂加，其實家事皂嘛，還是不要加感覺比較天然。）
2016年7月1日 星期五
2016年6月30日 星期四
Lavender Soap II
Here's the recipe I am going to use for my next lavender soap (without making oat milk and adding colloidal oatmeal into the soap).
From:
【Soap Making Resource】
Below is the exact lavender soap recipe formula
【油品】Total weight: 350g
From:
【Soap Making Resource】
Below is the exact lavender soap recipe formula
- Olive Oil = 21.2 Ounces (40% of total oils)
- Palm Oil (RBD) = 10.6 Ounces (20% of total oils)
- Coconut Oil (76 degrees) = 10.6 Ounces (20% of total oils)
- Rice Bran Oil = 4.77 Ounces (9% of total oils)
- Shea Butter, Ghana = 3.18 Ounces (6% of total oils)
- Castor Oil = 2.65 Ounces (5% of total oils)
- Lavender 40/42 Essential Oil = 75 Grams (2.646 Ounces)
- Colloidal Oatmeal = 4 tablespoons
- Lavender Buds = 2 Ounces
- Oat Milk = 20 ounces
- lye = 7.29 ounces (206 grams)
【油品】Total weight: 350g
- 薰衣草浸泡橄欖油 (40%)：140g
- 棕櫚油 (20%)：70g
- 椰子油 (20%)：70g
- 米糠油 (9%)：31.5g
- 蓖麻油 (5%)：17.5g
- 乳油木果脂 (6%)：21g
- 超脂乳油木果脂 (5%)：17.5g（＠＠ 這次忘了加進去！）
＊(這次不使用磨細的燕麥，也不自製燕麥奶)＊
【INS】140
【NaOH】48.5
【冷凍薰衣草茶】x2.3=112g; x2.7=131g。預計使用：120g
【精油】薰衣草
【粉類】大青藍：1/4t。紅色礦泥粉：1/4t。粉紅礦泥粉：1/4t。
【表面裝飾】薰衣草
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